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PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2004 8:26 am 
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I have St. Augustine grass in my front yard that gets some am sun, but the blades are not solid dark green. The blades have yellowish to lt green spots on the blades. The other side of my yard it looks fine. Also in my back yard I have some St. Aug that is under a cypress tree and a magnolia, what is left of it has solid yellow blades but a lot of it seemed to die out, but not in the whole yard. Can anyone shed some light on my problems???? thanks


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2004 2:58 pm 
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Location: San Antonio,TEXAS
Hi Benny, welcome to the Dirt Doctor forum. In your next message please tell us where you live. That will help to know if you have basically acid or alkaline soil. The magnolia tree makes me think you have acid soil but lots of people try to grow them in Texas calcium soils.

Have you fertilized in the past few months? If so, how much and when.

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 Post subject: lemon color, not lime!
PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2004 9:59 am 
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Location: Stephenville, TX
I have the same problem as Benny. I live outside of Stephenville TX, have caliche soil, full sun. Have been organic for just over 5 years. Pluses: cured the flea and tick problem for my house dogs that I let into the front yard. Minus: St Aug. grass has a more lemon than lime color. As it spreads, it is fine the first and 2nd year, then starts to die out. Last year I did try amm. sulphate, it turned it green for about 3-4 weeks, then back to lemon. Don't know if it has anything to do with it, but back in the 'old' days, if it rained I would get 40-50 earth worms on the porch. Now, it is unusual and at most only 1 or 2. I've done all of the green sand, corn meal, CGM, molasses, DE, compost, cut it high, etc that is recommended on here.
Any one with any suggestions?


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 Post subject: St Augustine probs
PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2004 6:33 am 
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I live in the Dallas, TX area, I think my soil is not acidic at all My Magnolia also is not as dark green as it should be and I have a black pine that has yellowish needles. I fertilized this spring using scotts turf builder. I have also have used some of the water soluble acid miracle grow on the bad area and trees.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 29, 2004 11:35 am 
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One more thing for John to try (or tell me you've already tried) is beneficial nematodes. If you've already filled your soil with nematodes and all the other stuff, then I'm ready to punt and call in the soil test gods. The best soil tester in Texas is Texas Plant and Soil Labs.

For Bennie, we talk about organic solutions here, so if you're hoping for a suggestion of which Scott's product to buy, you'll have to try another Internet forum. For now I'll assume you've seen the light and want an organic solution.

Note that John has tried everything I might suggest and is still having problems. Even if this was not an organic board, I would still send him to the soil lab before suggesting a chemical fertilizer. If he's done all the organic stuff and still has a problem, then something is wrong that is probably a mineral deficiency. Normally organic fertilizers replace minerals, too, but maybe he needs a stronger dose to rebalance his soil. Before I'll suggest a soil test for you, I'll suggest starting an organic program and see what happens. For starters, read the FAQ at the top of this forum. It will give you some background on how, why, and what we're doing.

After you've read that, eventually I'm going to suggest you get some greensand (glauconite) and apply that to the surface of your turf. I'm thinking you have a bound up iron problem. Glauconite will release the iron from the soil and allow the plants to get it. BUT FIRST, before you get the greensand, I'm going to strongly urge you to apply 1 cubic yard of compost per 1,000 square feet of turf. At the same time or the next day, apply 20 pounds of corn meal (or alfalfa, or soy or linseed) meal per 1,000 square feet of turf. Water all that in briefly just to make sure all the compost and meal is damp. Then water again in a week for about an hour or more. Repeat that watering weekly unless you get some rain. Then after three weeks see if your grass is not greened up. When you notice that it still looks just as yellow as before, then hit it with the greensand. The green sand can go on at about 40 pounds per 1,000 square feet. That's kind of expensive but it lasts for about 5 years or longer.

Good luck and let us know how it goes!

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 05, 2004 8:58 pm 
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Try putting corn meal maybe it will help the problem.


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